My African Journey

In so far as the collection of information is concerned, the advantages of travel may often be over-stated. So much has been written, so many facts are upon record about every country, even the most remote, that a judicious and persevering study of existing materials would no doubt enable a reader to fill himself with knowledge almost to repletion without leaving his chair. But for the formation of opinion, for the stirring and enlivenment of thought, and for the discernment of colour and proportion, the gifts of travel, especially of travel on foot, are priceless. It was with the design and in the hope of securing such prizes, that I undertook last year the pilgrimage of which these pages give account. I cannot tell whether I have succeeded in winning them; and still less whether, if won, they are transferable. I therefore view these letters with a modest eye. They were written mainly in long hot Uganda afternoons, after the day's march was done. The larger portion has already appeared in the Strand Magazine, and what has been added was necessary to complete the story.

They present a continuous narrative of the lighter side of what was to me a very delightful and inspiring journey; and it is in the hope that they may vivify and fortify the interest of the British people in the wonderful estates they have recently acquired in the northeastern quarter of Africa, that I offer them in a connected form to the indulgence of the public.

WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL

London, 1908.

CONTENTS

PAGE CHAPTER I

THE UGANDA RAILWAY 1

CHAPTER II

AROUND MOUNT KENYA 19

CHAPTER III

THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA 45

CHAPTER IV

THE GREAT LAKE 66

CHAPTER V

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA 86

CHAPTER VI

KAMPALA 104

CHAPTER VII

'ON SAFARI' 127

CHAPTER VIII

MURCHISON FALLS 148

CHAPTER IX

HIPPO CAMP 168

CHAPTER X

DOWN THE WHITE NILE 188

CHAPTER XI

THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT RAILWAY 209

ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page

MR. CHURCHILL AND THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA Frontispiece

ON THE COW-CATCHER 7

THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA 12

GUARD OF HONOUR, KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES 20

BREAKDOWN ON THE WAY TO THIKA CAMP 22

SHOOTING PARTY AT THIKA CAMP 24

THE BANDA AT THIKA CAMP 28

COLONEL WILSON'S LION 28

"DURBAR" AT KIAMBU 30

THE RIFT VALLEY FROM THE KIKUYU ESCARPMENT 66

GOVERNMENT STOCK FARM AT NAIVASHA 68

THE LAIBON'S WIVES 71

RAILHEAD AT KISUMU 71

KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU 80

NANDI AND KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU 84

KISUMU 86

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ENTEBBE 90

THE GOVERNOR WITH BAGANDA GROUP 102

BAGANDA WARRIORS AT KAMPALA 106

KING DAUDI'S DRUMMERS AT KAMPALA 108

WATCHING THE WAR-DANCE AT KAMPALA 109

ON THE WAY TO KAMPALA 110

ROAD BETWEEN JINJA AND LAKE CHIOGA 110

WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA--"THE BRAVEST MAN IN THE ARMY" 112

WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA 112

THE WHITE FATHERS' MISSION AT KAMPALA 114

CHILDREN AT THE ENGLISH CATHOLIC MISSION, KAMPALA 114

INTERIOR OF NAMIREMBE CATHEDRAL 116

THE RIPON FALLS (SOURCE OF THE NILE) 120

BETWEEN NIMULE AND GONDOKORO 128

FOREST SCENE NEAR RIPON FALLS 133

PALM TREE NEAR THE ASUA 134

BANDA WITH ESCORT OF KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES 134

AN ENCAMPMENT 136

LANDING AT MRULI 146

MURCHISON FALLS 159

FAJAO, WITH NATIVES ASSEMBLED TO WELCOME US 160

FLOTILLA AT FAJAO 162

THE TOP OF THE MURCHISON FALLS 164

UGANDA SCENERY 164

THE LANDING-PLACE AT FAJAO 169

EARLY MORNING ON THE NILE AT FAJAO 170

FAJAO 170

APPROACH TO LAKE ALBERT, WITH THE CONGO HILLS IN THE DISTANCE 174

WADELAI 174