Four Years in France

The author's father and grandfather, prebendaries of Lincoln.--The Cathedral service described.--The service in Magdalen College Chapel at Oxford.--The author's mother and his maternal ancestry.--November 5th.--School at which the author studies.--Mrs. Ravenscroft, a Catholic neighbour.--Dr. Geddes.--The author matriculates at Oxford.--The Tale of a Tub, its speciousness.--The Douay Translation of the New Testament.--Advice of a schoolmaster.--Gibbon the Historian.--Defence of the Reformed Church.--Argument derived from the exclusive antiquity of the Roman Catholic Church.--The Kirk of Scotland denies that it can be in the wrong, as strenuously as the Church of England does.--Infallibility.--Richard Paget.--Archbishop Laud.--The author takes the degree of Master of Arts.--In Deacon's orders: he fills a curacy in Lincoln.--Becomes a fellow of his college.--He resides on his fellowship.--His probationary exercise.--His sermon at St. Mary's Church, Oxford.--Its success.--He preaches against non-residence.--Decease of his mother.--The author resigns his fellowship, and removes to Lincoln.--The Bampton lecture.--Dr. Routh.--M. l'Abbé Beaumont, an emigrant priest at Lincoln.--A disputation.--Catholic arguments which impress the author's imagination.--Nicole and Arnaud.--Bossuet.--Ward's errata.--Of the sacraments.--Of purgatory.--Chillingworth.--Of abstinence.--The author convinced, after investigation, of the genuineness of the Roman Catholic doctrines, visits London.--He attends high mass.--His conversation with Dr. Douglas, the R. C. metropolitan bishop.--Rev. Mr. Hodgson appointed to be his priest and confessor.--His conversion completed.--The author baptised.--The author's apology to the Protestants, on account of his having been in holy orders of the Established Church.--He receives confirmation in the chapel of Virginia-street.--The author's idea that the Roman Catholic worship should be by law the established religion in Ireland.--Anecdote of Archdeacon Paley; who declared that he considered such a concession to the Irish nation expedient. 3

CHAP. I.

Spirit of adventure of the English.--English fox-hunters.--Money spent abroad.--Migration through France and Switzerland into Italy.--Return.--The English associate together.--In what consist their reasons for foreign residence.--Distrust with respect to Napoleon.--Gallery of the Louvre.--Its dispersion.--Exaggeration of the number of English absentees.--The foreign notions of our motives for travelling.--Reflections on international intercourse.--Nature of the author's observations gleaned during a long residence abroad.--Remarks on the character of the French revolution.--Its effects.--Elevation of Napoleon.--Great results that have accrued from the French revolution in the West Indies, in South America; and that may possibly take place in Africa. 75

CHAP. II.

The author repairs with his two sons to Southampton.--They set sail for Havre de Grâce.--Gale of wind.--Fécamp in sight.--Continue their course for Havre.--Land after a long passage.--The routes from London to Paris compared.--Port regulations.--The English Hôtel.--Hôtel de la Ville du Havre.--Damp sheets, how aired.--Strong coffee.--Mass.--Douanier.--Extortion by porters.--Imposition respecting passports.--Ill-breeding of certain parrots.--Commissaire de Police.--Embouchure of the Seine.--Legend and statue of St. Denis.--Inquiring peasant-boy.--French exactness.--The Rogation days.--Insolence of vulgar assistants in travelling abroad.--Commodious diligence.--Normandy.--Norman predilection.--Petition in verse.--The king of Yvetot.--Rouen.--Magny.--Abstinence, variously understood, and how practised.--Road along the banks of the Seine.--Village of St. Clair.--Pontoise.--Arrival at Paris.--Rate of travelling.--Lodge in the Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin. 92

CHAP. III.

Description of Paris.--Place Louis XV.--Palais Bourbon.--Triumphal arch of Neuilly.--Champs Elysées.--The Louvre.--Its gallery of paintings, and museum.--Excellent arrangement of the statues.--The Italian school.--Progress of the French school of painting.--The Jardin des Plantes.--Museum of Natural History.--Ménagerie.--Manners of the Bourgeois.--Palais du Luxembourg.--King's library.--New structure at the Place du Carousel.--Pont Neuf.--Église de Notre Dame.--Ste. Geneviève.--Sepulture in that church.--Church of St. Sulpice.--Dome of the Invalides.--The Halle aux Bleds.--Pillar of the Place Vendôme.--Young Napoleon.--Duc de Bordeaux.--Preponderance of Russia.--History of the "Victoires et Conquêtes, &c."--Model of the elephant, designed for the Place de la Bastille.--Le Marais.--Agreeableness of the Boulevards.--Great advantage of quais.--Hôtel Dieu.--La Morgue.--Manufactory of the Gobelins.--Le Palais Royal. 118

CHAP. IV.

Cemetery of Père la Chaise.--Graves there become a property.--Reflections respecting church-yards.--Computation of deaths, and room requisite for graves.--The Catacombs.--Arrival at Paris of the author's family.--Palace of Versailles described.--Royal chapel.--Anecdote of a mandarin.--Orange trees.--The gardens.--The Grand and Petit Trianon.--St. Germains.--Its terrace.--St. Cloud.--Its park.--Remark of George III.--Malmaison.--Marly.--Fine prospect.--Stability of the peace.--Meudon.--The Dauphiness (Duchesse d'Angoulême).--Manufacture of porcelain.--St. Denis.--The abbey of St. Denis.--Sceaux, popular festivities here.--Castle of Vincennes.--Duc d'Enghién.--Ancient oak.--Confluence of the Seine and the Marne.--The author attends mass in the Royal Chapel at the Tuilleries. 141