With Kelly to Chitral

Before you read this short history of a few brief weeks, I must warn you that it is no record of exciting adventure or heroic deeds, but simply an account of the daily life of British officers and Indian troops on a frontier expedition.

How we lived and marched, what we ate and drank, our small jokes and trials, our marches through snow or rain, hot valleys or pleasant fields, in short, all that contributed to fill the twenty-four hours of the day is what I have to tell.

I write it for you, and that it may please you is all I ask.--Your son,

W.B.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I - INTRODUCTORY

CHAPTER II - THE MARCH BEGINS

CHAPTER III - THE SHANDUR PASS

CHAPTER IV - FROM LASPUR TO GASHT

CHAPTER V - CHOKALWAT

CHAPTER VI - THE RECONNAISSANCE FROM MASTUJ

CHAPTER VII - THE FIGHT AT NISA GOL

CHAPTER VIII - THE MARCH RESUMED THROUGH KILLA DRASAN

CHAPTER IX - NEARING CHITRAL

CHAPTER X - WE REACH THE GOAL

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Those marked with a * are from Sketches by the Author.

*CHITRAL BRIDGE AND FORT

NIZAM-UL-MULK, MEHTER OF CHITRAL

*A "PARI" ON THE ROAD TO GUPIS

*THE SHANDUR PASS

*RECONNAISSANCE SKETCH OF THE POSITION AT CHOKALWAT

*MASTUJ FORT

LOOKING UP THE NISA GOL NULLAH

*RECONNAISSANCE SKETCH OF THE POSITION AT NISA GOL

MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF COLONEL KELLY'S FORCES

* * * * *

*** Thanks are due to the Publishers of Mr. Thomson's The Chitral Campaign for the loan of two blocks illustrating "Chokalwat" and "Nisa Gol" from Lieut. Beynon's sketches.

[Illustration: MAP OF NORTH WEST FRONTIER OF INDIA*]

WITH KELLY TO CHITRAL

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTORY

"Would you like to go up to Gilgit?"

"Rather."

I was down in the military offices at Simla, hunting for a book and some maps, when I was asked the above question. No idea of Gilgit had before entered my head, but with the question came the answer, and I have since wondered why I never before thought of applying for the billet.

This was at the end of June 1894, and on the 24th August I was crossing the Burzil pass into the Gilgit district. As day broke on the 31st August, I dropped down several thousand feet from Doyen to Ramghat in the Indus valley, and it suddenly struck me I must have come down too low, and got into Dante's Inferno. As I passed under the crossbeam of the suspension bridge, I looked to find the motto, "All hope relinquish, ye who enter here." It wasn't there, but instead there was a sentry on the bridge, who, on being questioned, assured me that though there was not much to choose in the matter of temperature between the two places, I was still on the surface of the earth. He seemed an authority on the subject, so I felt happier, and accepted the cup of tea offered me by the commander of the guard.

Two hours later I was in Bunji, where I found I was to stay, and two days after that, an officer on his way down to Kashmir passed through, and almost the first question he asked me was, why on earth I had come up to Gilgit. "Gilgit's played out," said he. Well, I had been asked that question several times on my march up, so I may as well explain that there are officially two chief causes which send men up to Gilgit--one is debts, and the other, the Intelligence Branch. These, I say, are the official reasons, but the real reason is the chance of a "frontier row." In Simla they call them military expeditions. This accounts for the last part of that young officer's speech. There seemed no chance of a row to him, so he was going to other fields, and wondered at my coming up. At first, the result seemed to bear him out, as within two months he was on the war-path in Waziristan, while I was still kicking my heels at Bunji; but luck changed later, and I laughed last.

Well, to continue, my official reason for coming to Gilgit being the Intelligence Branch, I was ordered up to Chitral early in November for some survey work, and thus obtained the knowledge of the route and country that was to stand me in such good stead later on. I finished my work in Chitral in ten days, starting back for Gilgit on the 1st December, arriving there on the 19th. I spent Christmas in Gilgit, and started on the 2nd January 1895 for Hunza, where I expected to remain for the rest of the winter.