The Unveiling of Lhasa

The recent expedition to Lhasa was full of interest, not only on account of the political issues involved and the physical difficulties overcome, but owing to the many dramatic incidents which attended the Mission's progress. It was my good fortune to witness nearly all these stirring events, and I have written the following narrative of what I saw in the hope that a continuous story of the affair may interest readers who have hitherto been able to form an idea of it only from the telegrams in the daily Press. The greater part of the book was written on the spot, while the impressions of events and scenery were still fresh. Owing to wounds I was not present at the bombardment and relief of Gyantse, but this phase of the operations is dealt with by Mr. Henry Newman, Reuter's correspondent, who was an eye-witness. I am especially indebted to him for his account, which was written in Lhasa, and occupied many mornings that might have been devoted to well-earned rest.

My thanks are also due to the Proprietors of the Daily Mail for permission to use material of which they hold the copyright; and I am indebted to the Editors of the Graphic and Black and White for allowing me to reproduce certain photographs by Lieutenant Bailey.

The illustrations are from sketches by Lieutenant Rybot, and photographs by Lieutenants Bailey, Bethell, and Lewis, to whom I owe my cordial thanks.

EDMUND CANDLER.

LONDON, January, 1905.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

THE CAUSES OF THE EXPEDITION

PAGES

A retrospect--Early visitors to Lhasa--The Jesuits--The Capuchins--Van der Putte--Thomas Manning--The Lazarist fathers--Policy of exclusion due to Chinese influence--The Nepalese invasion--Bogle and Turner--The Macaulay Mission--Tibetans invade Indian territory--The expedition of 1888--The convention with China--British blundering--Our treatment of the Shata Shapé--The Yatung trade mart--Tibetans repudiate the convention--Fiction of the Chinese suzerainty--A policy of drift--Tibetan Mission to the Czar--Dorjieff and his intrigues--The Dalai Lama and Russian designs--Our great countermove--Boycotted at Khamba Jong--The advance sanctioned--Winter quarters at Tuna 1-21

CHAPTER II

OVER THE FRONTIER

From the base to Gnatong--A race to Chumbi--A perilous night ride--Forest scenery--Gnatong three years ago and now--Gnatong in action--A mountain lake--The Jelap la and beyond--Undefended barriers--Yatung and its Customs House--Chumbi--The first Press message from Tibet--Arctic clothing--Scenes in camp--A very uncomfortable 'picnic' 22-34

CHAPTER III

THE CHUMBI VALLEY

The Tomos--A hardy race--Their habits and diversions--Chinamen in exile--A prosperous valley--But a cheerless clime--Kasi and his statistics--Trade figures--Tibetan cruelties--Kasi as general provider--Mountain scenery--The spirit of the Himalayas--A glorious flora--The Himalayas and the Alps--The wall of Gob-sorg--Chinamen and Tomos--A future hill-station--Lingmathang--A cosy cave--The Mounted Infantry Corps--Two famous regiments--Sport at Lingmathang--The Sikkim stag--Gamebirds and wildfowl--Gautsa camp 35-61

CHAPTER IV

PHARI JONG

Gautsa to Phari Jong--A wonderful old fortress--Tibetan dirt--A medical armoury--The Lamas' library--Roadmaking and sport--The Tibetan gazelle and other animals--Evening diversions--Cold, grime, and misery--Manning's journal--Bogle's account of Phari--History of the fortress--The town and its occupants--The mystery of Tibet--The significance of the frescoes--Departure from Phari--The monastery of the Red Lamas--Chumulari--The Tibetan New Year--Bogle's narrative--The Tang la and the road to Lhasa 62-82

CHAPTER V

THE ROAD AND TRANSPORT