The Isles of Scilly

It has been said that all writers may be divided into two classes: those who know enough to write a book, and those who do not know enough not to write one!

In collecting material for these notes on Scilly, I have endeavoured to prepare myself more or less to qualify for the former class; but now that they are complete it is with diffidence that I present them. They are but the impressions of an artist, recorded in colour and in ink, together with so much of the history of the islands and of general description as is necessary to comply with the unwritten law of colour-books.

For my historical facts I am indebted to many writers, ancient and modern. A list of the chief of these appears at the end of the book, so that my readers may refer, if they wish, to the original authorities.

My best thanks are due to Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch, for permission to quote his description of the kelping, and for other help he has kindly given me; to my friend Miss Emma Gollancz, for seeing my proofs through the press; and also to the many friends in Scilly from whom I have received assistance and information.

October, 1910.

NOTE TO SECOND EDITION

This second edition of “The Isles of Scilly” is issued in response to many requests that the book should appear in a cheaper form, the original edition having completely sold out.

A few slight alterations in the letterpress have been necessary, to correspond with changes that have taken place in the islands; but otherwise the contents are identical with those of the original issue.

PILGRIM’S PLACE HOUSE, HAMPSTEAD.

March, 1914.

CONTENTS

PREFATORY NOTE 5 NOTE TO SECOND EDITION 6 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTORY 11 CHAPTER II HISTORICAL 22 CHAPTER III FORMER INDUSTRIES 40 CHAPTER IV THE FLOWER INDUSTRY 51 CHAPTER V DESCRIPTIVE AND ARCHÆOLOGICAL 61 CHAPTER VI THE ISLAND FOLK: THEIR WAYS AND CUSTOMS 80 CHAPTER VII STORIES OF THE WRECKS 97 CHAPTER VIII ANNET AND THE SEA-BIRDS 109 CHAPTER IX ST. MARY’S 117 CHAPTER X TRESCO 140 CHAPTER XI BRYHER AND SAMSON 152 CHAPTER XII ST. AGNES 159 CHAPTER XIII ST. MARTIN’S AND ITS NEIGHBOURS 169 CHAPTER XIV CONCLUSION 178 LIST OF BOOKS REFERRED TO 185 INDEX 187

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

CROMWELL’S CASTLE, TRESCO Frontispiece THE OLDEST INHABITANT 14 ST. MARY’S POOL 20 THE GARRISON GATEWAY, ST. MARY’S 32 CROMWELL’S CASTLE, FROM CHARLES’S CASTLE 36 A GREY EVENING IN SCILLY 44 A FIELD OF ARUMS 52 A COTTAGE FLOWER-GROWER, TRESCO 58 THE GIANT’S PUNCH-BOWL, ST. AGNES 66 ST. MARTIN’S PIER 74 A FLOWER-BARROW, HUGH TOWN 82 DAFFODILS ON ST. MARTIN’S 90 OLD CHURCH, ST. MARY’S 98 SUNSET OVER SAMSON 104 A SHAG PARLIAMENT 110 THE ENTRANCE TO HUGH TOWN, FROM THE OLD PIER 118 PICKING FLOWERS BY THE CASTLE ROCKS 128 MONK’S COWL ROCK, ST. MARY’S 134 GIMBLE BAY, TRESCO 148 ARMOREL’S COTTAGE 156 A FLOWER-HOUSE ON ST. AGNES 162 CRAB-POT-MAKING BY ST. AGNES CHURCH 166 ROUND ISLAND, FROM ST. HELEN’S 174 OFF TO ST. MARTIN’S 180 MAP OF THE ISLES OF SCILLY 10

[Illustration: MAP OF THE SCILLY ISLES George Philip & Son Ltd]

I

INTRODUCTORY

A “colour-book” on Scilly needs no apology, so far as the subject is concerned, for there is no corner of Great Britain which more demands or deserves a tribute to its colour than do these little islands, scattered about in the Atlantic twenty-eight miles from the Land’s End.