Paris as It Was and as It Is

In the course of the following production, the Reader will meet with several references to a Plan of Paris, which it had been intended to prefix to the work; but that intention having been frustrated by the rupture between the two countries, in consequence of which the copies for the whole of the Edition have been detained at Calais, it is hoped that this apology will be accepted for the omission.

CONTENTS.

VOLUME FIRST.

New Organization of the National Institute

INTRODUCTION

LETTER I. On the ratification of the preliminary treaty of peace, the author leaves London for Paris--He arrives at Calais on the 16th of October, 1801--Apparent effect of the peace--After having obtained a passport, he proceeds to Paris, in company with a French naval officer.

LETTER II. Journey from Calais to Paris--Improved state of agriculture--None of the French gun-boats off Boulogne moored with chains at the time of the attack--St. Denis--General sweep made, in 1793, among the sepultures in that abbey--Arrival at Paris--Turnpikes now established throughout Prance--Custom-house scrutiny.

LETTER III. Objects which first strike the observer on arriving at Paris after an absence of ten or twelve years--Tumult in the streets considerably diminished since the revolution--No liveries seen--Streets less dangerous than formerly to pedestrians--Visits paid to different persons by the author--Price of lodgings nearly doubled since 1789 --The author takes apartments in a private house.

LETTER IV. Climate of Paris--Thermolampes or stoves which afford light and heat on an economical plan--Sword whose hilt was adorned with the Pitt diamond, and others of considerable value, presented to the Chief Consul.

LETTER V. Plan on which these letters are written.

LETTER VI. The Louvre or National Palace of Arts and Sciences described --Old Louvre--Horrors of St. Bartholomew's day--From this palace Charles IX fired on his own subjects--Additions successively made to it by different kings--Bernini, sent for by Lewis XIV, forwarded the foundation of the New Louvre, and returned to Italy--Perrault produced the beautiful colonnade of the Louvre, the master-piece of French architecture--Anecdote of the Queen of England, relict of Charles I--Public exhibition of the productions of French Industry.

LETTER VII. Central Museum of the Arts--Gallery of Antiques--Description of the different halls and of the most remarkable statues contained in them, with original observations by the learned connoisseur, Visconti.

LETTER VIII. Description of the Gallery of Antiques, and of its chefs-d'oeuvre of sculpture continued and terminated--Noble example set by the French in throwing open their museums and national establishments to public inspection--Liberal indulgence shewn to foreigners.

LETTER IX. General A----y's breakfast--Montmartre--Prospect thence enjoyed --Theatres.

LETTER X. Regulations of the Police to be observed by a stranger on his arrival in the French capital--Pieces represented at the Théâtre Louvois --Palais du gouvernement or Palace of the Tuileries described--It was constructed, by Catherine de Medicis, enlarged by Henry IV and Lewis XIII, and finished By Lewis XIV--The tenth of August, 1792, as pourtrayed by an actor in that memorable scene--Number of lives lost on the occasion--Sale of the furniture, the king's wardrobe, and other effects found in the palace--Place du Carrousel--Famous horses of gilt bronze brought from Venice and placed here--The fate of France suspended by a thread--Fall of Robespiere and his adherents.