On the Red Chalk of England

Persons in general take as the type or representative of chalk the material which mechanics employ for tracing out rough lines and figures. It is a substance of a bright white colour, somewhat yielding to the touch, and capable of being very easily abraded or rubbed down.

But the geologist gives a much wider interpretation to the term, not limiting it by these few characteristics; and, accordingly, he includes under the same title many strata which would hardly be so grouped together by the uninitiated.

For instance, there is at the base of the upper portion of the cretaceous system a certain hard, often pebbly, and highly coloured band, which, notwithstanding its great departure from the popular type, is nevertheless styled in geological language the "Red Chalk." This stratum, the subject of the present paper, nowhere forms a mass of any great thickness or extent; perhaps if thirty feet be taken as its maximum of thickness, four feet as its minimum, and one hundred miles as its utmost extent in length, the truth will be arrived at. It may be said, also, to be peculiar to England, for the Scaglia, or Red Chalk of the Italians, has little in common with that of our country. The two differ widely in appearance, in situation, and in fossils.

The first view of the seam in the north is to be obtained about six miles north-west of Flamborough Head, in Yorkshire, near the village of Speeton, where its structure, dip, and general appearance can be remarkably well studied.

Speeton is a small village, a place of no great note in the business-world, yet of much fame amongst the lovers of geology, inasmuch as in its neighbourhood there are several interesting formations, to one of which--the Speeton clay--it gives a name.

In these days of rapid travelling, the village has the great convenience of a railway-station, from whence the cliffs below can be reached without the slightest difficulty.

[Illustration: Lign. 1.--Map of Part of Yorkshire, Lincolnshire, and Norfolk, showing the Outcrop and Range of the Red Chalk.]

As I wish to conduct the members of the Association to the Red Chalk in sitû, let us suppose that, starting from some locality near the Hull and Scarborough Railway, we have taken tickets for Speeton station, and have in due time arrived at that latter place. On alighting from the train we must direct our steps to the houses in front, and then inquire the way to the sea-shore, above which we shall be standing at some considerable height--say four hundred feet. We shall be told to walk by the church, to turn to the right along a little lane, and then to look for an obscure path which passes across the fields. We shall soon afterwards, being on high ground, be able, by the light of nature, to find a way down to the sands below.

Whilst descending, let us survey the scene that lies before us. It is a grand one, rendered picturesque by the broken ground, the solitude, and the sounding of the waves. Right ahead, there is the open Bay of Filey; on the left hand, the town of Filey and its Brig; not a ship, as one might imagine, but a huge mass of rocks of the coralline oolite, jutting out to sea at right angles from the shore, like a pier formed by human hands, and crowned on the land-side by strangely cut pinnacles of pink and rugged drift. On the right hand there are the high and perpendicular white chalk cliffs of the Flamborough range. As we pass down we shall meet with a gulley or bed of a small stream, in all probability quite dry, by following the winding course of which we shall reach the shore. This gulley passes over an escarpment of diluvial matter (the whole place being in confusion through the effects of small landslips), and traverses the Red Chalk itself, the first trace of which will be rendered visible by means of rolled fragments, which the force of the stream has at different times detached.