An Inland Voyage

TO equip so small a book with a preface is, I am half afraid, to sin against proportion. But a preface is more than an author can resist, for it is the reward of his labours. When the foundation stone is laid, the architect appears with his plans, and struts for an hour before the public eye. So with the writer in his preface: he may have never a word to say, but he must show himself for a moment in the portico, hat in hand, and with an urbane demeanour.

It is best, in such circumstances, to represent a delicate shade of manner between humility and superiority: as if the book had been written by some one else, and you had merely run over it and inserted what was good. But for my part I have not yet learned the trick to that perfection; I am not yet able to dissemble the warmth of my sentiments towards a reader; and if I meet him on the threshold, it is to invite him in with country cordiality.

To say truth, I had no sooner finished reading this little book in proof, than I was seized upon by a distressing apprehension. It occurred to me that I might not only be the first to read these pages, but the last as well; that I might have pioneered this very smiling tract of country all in vain, and find not a soul to follow in my steps. The more I thought, the more I disliked the notion; until the distaste grew into a sort of panic terror, and I rushed into this Preface, which is no more than an advertisement for readers.

What am I to say for my book? Caleb and Joshua brought back from Palestine a formidable bunch of grapes; alas! my book produces naught so nourishing; and for the matter of that, we live in an age when people prefer a definition to any quantity of fruit.

I wonder, would a negative be found enticing? for, from the negative point of view, I flatter myself this volume has a certain stamp. Although it runs to considerably upwards of two hundred pages, it contains not a single reference to the imbecility of God’s universe, nor so much as a single hint that I could have made a better one myself.—I really do not know where my head can have been. I seem to have forgotten all that makes it glorious to be man.—’Tis an omission that renders the book philosophically unimportant; but I am in hopes the eccentricity may please in frivolous circles.

To the friend who accompanied me I owe many thanks already, indeed I wish I owed him nothing else; but at this moment I feel towards him an almost exaggerated tenderness. He, at least, will become my reader:—if it were only to follow his own travels alongside of mine.

R.L.S.

CONTENTS

PAGE ANTWERP TO BOOM 1 ON THE WILLEBROEK CANAL 8 THE ROYAL SPORT NAUTIQUE 16 AT MAUBEUGE 25 ON THE SAMBRE CANALISED: TO QUARTES 33 PONT-SUR-SAMBRE: WE ARE PEDLARS 42 THE TRAVELLING MERCHANT 51 ON THE SAMBRE CANALISED: TO LANDRECIES 59 AT LANDRECIES 67 SAMBRE AND OISE CANAL: CANAL BOATS 75 THE OISE IN FLOOD 83 ORIGNY SAINTE-BENOÎTE A BY-DAY 95 THE COMPANY AT TABLE 105 DOWN THE OISE: TO MOY 116 LA FÈRE OF CURSED MEMORY 124 DOWN THE OISE: THROUGH THE GOLDEN VALLEY 133 NOYON CATHEDRAL 137 DOWN THE OISE: TO COMPIÈGNE 145 CHANGED TIMES 157 DOWN THE OISE: CHURCH INTERIORS 167 PRÉCY AND THE MARIONNETTES 177 BACK TO THE WORLD 194

TO SIR WALTER GRINDLAY SIMPSON, BART.

My dear Cigarette,

It was enough that you should have shared so liberally in the rains and portages of our voyage; that you should have had so hard a paddle to recover the derelict ‘Arethusa’ on the flooded Oise; and that you should thenceforth have piloted a mere wreck of mankind to Origny Sainte-Benoîte and a supper so eagerly desired. It was perhaps more than enough, as you once somewhat piteously complained, that I should have set down all the strong language to you, and kept the appropriate reflexions for myself. I could not in decency expose you to share the disgrace of another and more public shipwreck. But now that this voyage of ours is going into a cheap edition, that peril, we shall hope, is at an end, and I may put your name on the burgee.